Carved wooden elephants occupy an enormous quality range, from genuinely skilled work to pieces knocked out in minutes. In a photograph they can look similar. In the hand the difference is immediate, and it concentrates in three or four places.
Grain direction, which decides whether it survives
Start here, because it is structural rather than cosmetic. An elephant is an awkward shape to carve: a heavy body with thin projections in the trunk, the legs and the tusks.
Wood is strong along the grain and weak across it. A carver working properly orients the piece so the grain runs lengthways down the trunk and the legs, which are the vulnerable parts. A carver working fast takes whatever orientation the block gives and produces a trunk with grain running across it, which will snap at the first knock.
You can see this. Look at the trunk and follow the lines of the grain. If they run along its length, good. If they run across it, the piece has a built in weakness whatever else is right about it.

The ears, where skill shows
The ears are the test. They need to be thin enough to read as ears, symmetrical enough to look deliberate, and even in thickness across their whole span, all in a material that splits if you take too much.
Look for consistent thickness rather than ears that are thick at the base and suddenly thin at the edge. Look at the two ears together for symmetry. And look at the back of the ear, which on a rushed piece is often left flat and unshaped because nobody photographs it.
Where cheap carving cuts corners
Four places, consistently.
The underside, which is frequently left rough or unfinished entirely. The back, for the same reason. The area between the legs, which is fiddly to reach and often left as a solid mass rather than genuinely carved through. And the face, particularly around the eyes, where a few quick cuts pass at a distance and look crude close up.
Turn any piece over before buying. The underside tells you what the maker thought they could get away with.
Joins, filler and repairs
Tusks are the most commonly repaired part, since they are the thinnest and break most easily in transit. A join is not automatically a problem, and a well made piece may legitimately have separate tusks fitted, but it should be neat.
Look for filler, which appears as a slightly different texture or colour that does not take the finish the same way. Raking light across the surface reveals it. Check where the trunk meets the head, where the legs meet the body, and around the tusks.
Finish
A hand applied finish should be slightly uneven in a way that reads as deliberate, catching more heavily in the recesses and wearing lighter on the high points, which is how a real object ages.
A sprayed finish is uniform everywhere including in the crevices, which is the tell. On our turquoise and gold and white and gold pieces the gold detail is applied by hand, which is why it sits differently on each one.

Weight
Solid wood is dense and a carved elephant should feel heavier than it looks. Lightness suggests either a very soft timber, which will dent, or a hollow construction.
This is the fastest check available and it takes a second.
Buying online, where you cannot handle it
Look for photographs from more than one angle, and specifically a view of the back or underside. A seller who shows only the front three quarter view is showing you the best angle and nothing else.
Check whether the listing names the timber. A specific answer such as suar or mango suggests the seller knows what they are selling. Wood, unqualified, suggests nobody asked.
And be wary of a piece that looks identical across every photograph in a range, which indicates moulding rather than carving.
Care once you have it
Keep carved wood away from radiators and direct sun, which dry it and open splits along the grain. Dust with a dry cloth. A little natural wood oil once a year keeps the timber content, applied sparingly and wiped off rather than left as a film.
Our full range is in carved elephants, and the meaning question is covered in trunk up or trunk down.
Questions people ask
How do I judge the quality of a carved elephant?
Look at grain direction through the trunk and legs, the thinness and symmetry of the ears, and the underside and back. Those three places separate skilled work from rushed work.
Why does grain direction matter?
Wood is strong along the grain and weak across it. A trunk carved with the grain running across its length will snap at the first knock, however good the piece looks otherwise.
How can I spot a repair?
Look for filler, which shows as a slightly different texture or colour that takes the finish differently. Raking light across the surface reveals it. Check the tusks, the trunk join and the legs.
How do I tell a hand applied finish from a sprayed one?
A hand finish sits more heavily in recesses and lighter on high points, as a real object ages. A sprayed finish is uniform everywhere including in the crevices.
How should I care for a carved wooden elephant?
Away from radiators and direct sun, dusted with a dry cloth, and a little natural wood oil once a year applied sparingly and wiped off rather than left as a film.